Accessible Northland – Stories, Spirit, and Scenery in New Zealand’s Far North

 Taitokerau Northland is the birthplace of Aotearoa New Zealand, a region where lush native forests, towering kauri trees, rich Māori heritage, and dramatic coastlines all lie within easy reach. Travel writer Adele Heidenreich shares her experience. 

Just a few hours’ drive north of Auckland, it’s a diverse and welcoming part of the country, known for its deep cultural roots, laid-back towns, and unforgettable natural beauty. 

Carried by the wind, the scent of native bush and ocean drifts across the rolling landscape. The climate is subtropical, with pleasant temperatures year-round and lime-green hills that ripple across the landscape, almost fluorescent when they catch the sun.  

As someone who has spent a lifetime on crutches, I know how important it is to understand a place before you go. To know what’s possible, what might take a little extra effort, and what’s worth the trip.  

With that in mind, I explored Northland’s accessibility firsthand and created a six-day itinerary that highlights some of the region’s most scenic and memorable experiences. 

6-DAY ACCESSIBLE NORTHLAND ITINERARY 

DAY 1: Whangārei Art and Architecture, and the Tūtīkākā Coast 

Begin your visit at the striking Hundertwasser Art Centre with Wairau Māori Art Gallery, where bold curves, bright colours, and living rooftops come together in a space that blends art, nature, and architecture. Austrian-born artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser was a visionary, championing sustainability and creative freedom long before they became mainstream ideas. 

The museum is inspiring without being overwhelming, and there’s a genuine feel-good energy to the space.  

Accessibility notes:  
The first floor features a partly uneven decorative surface, part of Hundertwasser’s belief that buildings should reflect the natural world. There are lifts, accessible toilets, and a power-assisted lift to reach the top dome with its wide views over Whangārei. 

Afterwards, take a flat, accessible stroll along the Whangārei Town Basin. This compact harbourside promenade features cafés, galleries, and the quirky Claphams National Clock Museum, home to one of the world’s largest collections of timepieces. 

Later in the day, continue east to the scenic Tūtūkākā Coast. Settle in at Lodge 9, a stylish and welcoming stay just steps from the marina. For dinner, head next door to Schnappa Rock, a laid-back local favourite known for fresh seafood and a breezy, open-air atmosphere. 

DAY 2: Poor Knights Islands Cruise and Matapōuri Beach 

Start the day with a sunrise at Matapōuri Beach, just ten minutes from Tūtūkākā. With its soft white sand and turquoise water, it is one of the most picturesque beaches in the area. A wooden viewing platform beside the carpark offers a lovely overlook, with a short ramp leading partway down and a few steps to the sand.  

Off the coast from Tūtūkākā, the Poor Knights Islands rise dramatically from the sea. These volcanic formations are surrounded by a protected marine reserve, known for deep blue water, towering cliffs, sea caves, and exceptional snorkelling. 

I joined a full-day cruise with Perfect Day Ocean Cruise, which included on-board commentary from the local crew, optional snorkelling and kayaking, and plenty of time to take in the scenery, marine life, and unique geology of the islands. 

Accessibility notes:  
Vessels range in size from 20 to 75 passengers, all fit for wheelchairs. The pier is a short distance from the office, followed by a slightly steep ramp. Before departure, passengers select a wetsuit from a wide range of sizes, which I found helped me feel buoyant while snorkelling. The pier has wide arms extending alongside the vessel, allowing side entry with just a small step over a raised safety lip. 

At the islands, the larger vessel has a platform that lowers to water level for easier access. I joined a smaller boat, which had a short stepladder, but the back deck sat close enough to the water that I could sit on the edge and lower myself in. Returning to the boat was just a few steps, helped by the buoyancy of the wetsuit and water. 

Te Hononga Hundertwasser Memorial Park in Kawakawa

After returning to shore, take a short detour to Kawakawa on your way to Paihia to see its famous Hundertwasser-designed public toilets. It might be the only time you’ll enjoy colourful mosaics and scenic views while answering the call of nature. 
 
In Paihia, the Tipsy Oyster serves fusion-style, tapas-sized dishes in a relaxed beachfront setting. 

DAY 3 - 4: Founding Story, Bay of Islands Cruise, and Russell’s Historic Charm

Begin your day at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, where New Zealand’s founding document was signed. This is where modern Aotearoa began and at the start an excellent museum present its engaging story through visual exhibits, short videos, and interactive displays.  

A guided tour led by local Māori provides powerful insight into the treaty, the people behind it, and its ongoing relevance. A second museum tells the story of Māori service and sacrifice during times of war. The visit also includes a cultural performance inside the carved meeting house, offering a memorable introduction to Māori traditions. 

Accessibility notes: 
Mobility parking is available near the entrance, with a smooth path leading into the grounds. Accessible toilets are located at both the top and bottom. After passing through the museum and gift shop, a boardwalk leads to a fork. Take the middle path for the most wheelchair-friendly route. It’s paved, gently uphill, and takes about 10 minutes at a slow pace. You can also arrange direct vehicle access to the top by calling ahead. Allow at least half a day to explore. 

Let staff know if you need a ramp to access the cultural performance. The 50-minute guided walking tour can be done before or after, with a relaxed pace and wheelchair-friendly route. 

Paihia is a perfect base for exploring the Bay of Islands, a region known for its clear blue water, scattered islands, and calm, sheltered bays. 

I joined a half-day cruise with Fuller’s Bay of Islands, which first took us out to the famous Hole in the Rock. As we made our way through the bay, we passed scattered islands and rocky shorelines, with seabirds overhead and sunlight dancing on the water. 

On the return journey, the boat stopped at Otehei Bay for 90 minutes. With turquoise water, grassy hills, and a postcard-perfect cove, it felt almost too idyllic to be real. There is a beachfront café, a small museum and gift shop, and short but steep walking tracks with sweeping views over the surrounding coast. In summer, guided walks are available, or you can rent snorkelling and kayaking gear.  

Accessibility notes: 
The terminal in Paihia is centrally located at the main wharf. A ramp leads to the pier, followed by a second short ramp onto the vessel. The three-level cruise boat has steep stairs between decks, but the main level is fully accessible, with wide windows for views, plenty of seating, and a wheelchair-accessible toilet. The doorway has a small raised safety lip, but staff are happy to assist. At Otehei Bay, a sturdy ramp makes it easy to get on and off the boat. All buildings are connected by wooden ramps, though you’ll need to cross grassy areas between them. 

After visiting Otehei Bay, the boat stopped at Russell for those who preferred to disembark there instead of returning to Paihia. Once known as the “hellhole of the Pacific” for its rowdy days of sailors and taverns, Russell is now a peaceful town with tree-lined streets, colonial buildings, and a relaxed pace. It’s flat, compact, and easy to get around, and even home to New Zealand’s oldest operating supermarket. 

To see more of the area, I joined the Russell Mini Tour that goes beyond the town centre into the surrounding landscape. Since the terrain becomes steep near to town, it’s a great way to enjoy the scenery without walking. I finished the day with fish tacos at Hone’s Garden, set in a leafy green courtyard I’d happily return to, before catching the 15-minute public ferry back to Paihia. 

Accessibility notes: 
If you plan to disembark at Russell during your cruise, let staff know when boarding in Paihia so they can bring a wheelchair ramp. Without it, there is a gap between the boat and pier that requires stepping down. The public ferry back to Paihia has a ramp and staff who can assist with boarding. 

The minibus has large windows and is accessed by three small steps. Wheelchairs can be safely stored at the tour office during the ride. The lookout stop offers excellent views, even from inside the vehicle.

DAY 5: Cape Reinga, Ninety Mile Beach, and the Far North 

At Te Rerenga Wairua Cape Reinga, the iconic lighthouse stands perched on steep cliffs where the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean meet in crashing swirls. It’s also the place where Māori believe spirits begin their journey home. Nearby, Te Oneroa-a-Tōhe Ninety Mile Beach stretches endlessly along the coast, accessible only with the right vehicle.  

I joined Fullers for a full-day trip, which saved me the long drive to the northern tip of the region. While Northland’s roads are easy to navigate, they are winding and the distances are long. Travelling with a guide also added value to the experience, with Māori stories, local history, and insight into native flora and fauna along the way. 

The landscape shifted constantly. Morning mist curled and crept over the hills, and green pastures rippled toward the horizon. Cows, sheep, and horses grazed quietly, and even the farmhouses seemed to blend in, painted in soft shades of white and green that didn’t disturb the natural palette. 

On the way to Cape Reinga, we made a stop at Kā Uri in Awanui, where you can walk up a staircase built into a preserved kauri tree and peek into a waka workshop where traditional canoes are restored and crafted. There are also toilets, a café, and a small gift shop.  

After exploring the dramatic northernmost point and its lighthouse, we headed back south for a scenic outdoor lunch before continuing to Ninety Mile Beach. We drove along the wide stretch of sand, a fun ride with a stop for optional sandboarding down a nearby dune. On the return journey, we paused once more in Awanui before arriving back in Paihia in the evening. 

Accessibility notes:  
The coach has five steps to board, with sturdy handrails and helpful assistance from the driver. Wheelchairs can be stored in the luggage hold. 

At Cape Reinga, we had about an hour to roam. The asphalt path to the lighthouse is smooth and suitable for wheelchairs, but it is steep. Thankfully, you don’t have to go far down the path to enjoy panoramic views and take beautiful photos. 

The sand at Ninety Mile Beach was firm and easy to walk on. Sandboarding is done on a small dune, and while the climb is short, it does involve getting up a sandy slope. The bus stops directly beside the hill, making it easy to either watch or take part. 

DAY 6: Hokianga Harbour, Kupe’s Legacy, and the Forest Giant 

On the wild west coast of Northland, Kupe, the great Polynesian navigator who first discovered Aotearoa, is said to have landed. The landscape here feels almost untouched, with dense forest, sweeping coastal views, and quiet roads linking remote communities. 

I drove west to Rawene and stopped for breakfast at the Boatshed Café, perched right on the scenic harbour. From there, it was a short drive to Manea: Footprints of Kupe, a cultural centre that shares the Māori creation story and Kupe’s arrival. 

Part of the guided tour includes a powerful cultural performance that surrounds you with motion, light, and sensation, drawing you into the story in a visceral way. I recommend arriving a bit early or staying after to explore the interactive video room at your own pace.  

Accessibility notes: 
Parking is available directly outside the entrance, with step-free access via a smooth ramp. Inside, videos are captioned and headphones are available. The outdoor storytelling area has a hard-packed gravel path that may be slightly challenging for small wheels, but the pace is relaxed and manageable. 

From Manea, I continued south along the west coast. The road winds through leafy forests, open countryside, and winding backroads with barely another car in sight. The air is fresh, and at times, you're completely enveloped in green, with only glimpses of sky through the canopy. 

The journey led me to Waipoua Forest and the great kauri tree Tāne Mahuta, nearly 2,000 years old and the fifth largest tree in the world. Kauri trees grow only in New Zealand, and today, just five percent of the original forests remain. 

Known as the guardian of the forest, Tāne Mahuta is sacred and awe-inspiring. You don’t truly grasp its scale until you’re standing in front of it, craning your neck to look up. If it’s raining, even better, the moisture brings out the twisting patterns and diamond textures in its bark.  

Accessibility notes: 
Parking is across the road from the forest entrance, with accessible toilets nearby. All visitors must clean their shoes to protect the native forest, and a wheelchair-accessible cleaning station is provided. The short 150-metre return walk to Tāne Mahuta follows a smooth boardwalk, ending at a spacious platform with excellent sightlines. 

From here, continue south towards Auckland through Dargaville, a rural town known for its kūmara (sweet potato) farming and its spot along Wairoa River. It’s a fitting place to pause before the final drive through Northland’s striking scenery.

Final Thoughts: Where the Past Feels Present 

In Māori belief, everything is connected. Land, sea, and sky are seen as ancestors, not just scenery. That way of thinking makes sense in Northland. The ocean is never far, you walk where defining moments took place, and the skies seem to stretch endlessly. 

Here, heritage is not only preserved but actively shared, and accessible experiences help more people connect with the past and with those who continue to carry it forward. 

Practical Tips for Planning an Accessible Trip to Northland  

• Book early: Especially for activities or boat tours in peak season. 

• Tour operators: Confirm accessibility directly and discuss your needs in advance for the best experience. 

• Transport: Public transport is limited, so having a car is essential. Accessible rental vehicles are available from Auckland. Rental Mobility Vehicles 

• Parking: Parking is available, but allow time during peak hours or weekends.  

• Hotels: Use sites like Booking.com or Tripadvisor to filter for roll-in showers and accessible rooms, but always call to confirm details.